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First, there are some common-sense
things: If it seems too good to be
true, it most likely is. If the seller's feedback is below body temperature,
or if there are a gang of mutual withdrawals, be very cautious. If the
seller is in a foreign country and/or wants payment by a method not recommended
by eBay, don't do it.
That said, an axiom for buying anything on eBay that costs
more than you can afford to lose is: Always pay with PayPal by credit card.
This offers the most comprehensive protection for the buyer.
Stick with brand names and do your
homework.
Stick with brand names only. Check the prices of these instruments, new
and used, in as many different sources as you can. Local music stores,
catalogues, classified ads and bulletin boards at your local college are
all excellent research tools. There are many different sites on the internet
that list classified ads, and some are specific to the instrument you're
looking for.
After you have some idea of the market, search eBay listings for what
you want. I find it a good idea not to have eBay prices in my mind first,
but to have the outside base of comparison.
Reading the listing. Look
at the title, the gallery picture, the price, location and accepted payment
methods. If anything there looks shaky, go back. Keep in mind that
on eBay, another one will be listed again soon. If all is well, go on
to the description and the rest of the photos. If there's only one photo,
especially if it's dark or out of focus, check to see if the seller invites
you to ask for more pix. If not, nature leads one to suspect something
is being hidden. That may not be true, but it's pretty easy to take good
pix, even with an inexpensive digital camera.
If the description includes damage, like dents or
bent keys, be sure to see a good close-up of it. What one person describes
as "minor" may
not be what you consider it to be. You also want to know the serial number
of the instrument, or at least the first digits of it. Some sellers don't
list serial numbers because unscrupulous people have been known to make
false reports of stolen goods based on the numbers, but the first several
numbers help date the instrument and should not be refused if requested
through ASQ.
Which brings us to: Ask, ask, ask. If a seller doesn't care to answer
your questions before you bid, how helpful will he be if there's a problem
afterward?
Many of the sellers whose listings say
something like, "I
don't play this, so I can't tell you whether it's playable." If someone's
clearing out Grandpa's attic and finds and old flugelhorn to sell, that's
one thing. But if the seller is listing ten flugelhorns from different
makers, expect better. It doesn't cost an arm and a leg to take an instrument
to a technician and have him evaluate it. Expect that any seller
who lists several instruments either to have a tech on retainer or make
some other effort to demonstrate proof that the instrument is in the condition
described. If the seller says the horn has been cleaned, adjusted and play-tested,
so much the better.
If you see a brand-new instrument selling for half or
less of your research prices, beware. There are two main possibilities:
That the instrument is a shoddy, usually foreign-made, copy of what you
want; or that the instrument doesn't really exist and is listed by a scammer.
Don't even open those listings, because of the phishing that's been going
on all over eBay. High-dollar items like musical instruments are especially
vulnerable to this.
Compare shipping costs among items, too. If the instrument
is being sold as-is, with no returns accepted, you may end up stuck with
something you can't use. If the seller accepts returns within a limited
time, be sure you adhere to it.
Bidding: Once you've found
your item, bid mindfully. Decide how much you are willing to pay, wait
as late in the auction as you can stand to (the last five minutes is good)
and then place your maximum bid. This isn't the only bidding strategy
out there, but it keeps one from getting into a bidding frenzy and spending
way more than one can afford because of an overdose of adrenaline.
Once it gets to you: Okay, you bid, you won, you paid. In most cases you'll
need to be home when the item comes or make arrangements to pick it up
from the shipper because you'll have to sign for it unless you got a very
inexpensive deal. Look the parcel over very carefully before you open it,
preferably in front of the deliver person. If the box shows significant
damage, you want it to be noted immediately. Open it and inspect it for
obvious shipping damage. If it's been rattling around loose in a box for
a thousand miles (or even less), even an instrument in its own fitted case
can be damaged beyond repair. If all seems well,
Have it evaluated: At this
point, you need some outside assistance. Within the time-frame of the return
policy you need to have an experienced person check the instrument out
thoroughly, even if it's brand new. Your child's teacher is a good start
- although teachers have very little time in class to give the instrument
a full inspection. Your local music store can help you better, but if they
have a backlog for their technician they may not be able to do it in time.
Most instruments, even new from the factory, need some minor adjusting
after shipping. You shouldn't consider spending a few dollars on a tune
up a matter to take up with the seller, but if the horn is significantly
not as described, you need to contact the seller and follow all the procedures
given elsewhere on eBay.
Success: Once you've received
your purchase and made sure you got what you paid for, your child is on
his way to a lifetime of enjoying music.
www.stringseason.com/workshop
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